The ancient “Sashiko” pieces were found between the 6th and 7th centuries in Nara, Japan. Although the craft had not yet been given the name “Sashiko,” identical patterns were evident in the attire of ancient Buddhist monks. The monks wore garments, called “Funzoe”/“Shinougesa,” made from remnants of used kimonos and embroidered with multiple running stitch patterns, which would soon be known as “Sashiko.” For centuries, Japanese folk textiles were woven from bast-fiber in Japan as Asa (hemp). Such fiber is time-consuming to produce, difficult to weave, and provides little warmth.
To increase warmth and to recycle whatever fabrics they possessed, northern Japan farmers' wives and daughters developed Sashiko. Textile fragments were patched together with a running stitch of heavy double cotton thread. The stitching itself helped to strengthen the fabric, and the multiple layers increased their warmth.
Cotton came into widespread use in Japan during the 18th century, but because the northern climate is too cold for the cultivation of cotton, it had to be imported. An expensive item for the typical family living on the farms, every available bit of cotton had to be saved and reused. Sashiko was produced almost exclusively in homes for the family’s personal use. As cotton cloth and thread became more available in the twentieth century the style of stitching became more and more decorative.
The use of these stitches continues to strengthen the underlying fabric for warmth and wear, but has evolved into the decorative foundation of the garment. The patterns were generally simple and derived from nature.
